What are 90 Degree Elbow Pipe and why are they a Popular Choice ...

The marine industry has been using 90 degree elbow pipes for quite some time now, for good reason. These pipes are an essential component of any plumbing system on a boat and play a vital role in maintaining the system’s overall integrity. In this blog post, we will closely examine what 90 degree elbow pipes are, how they work, and why they are such a popular choice in marine applications.

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What is a 90 Degree Elbow Pipe?

A 90 degree elbow pipe is a plumbing fitting designed to change the direction of fluid flow in a piping system. These fittings are usually made of brass, titanium, or stainless steel and come in various sizes to suit different applications. The name “90 degree elbow” comes from the fitting creating a 90 degree angle in the piping system, which makes it ideal for situations where you need to change the direction of flow without disrupting the overall flow rate.

How do 90 Degree Elbow Pipes Work?

90 degree elbow pipes work by using a curved pipe segment designed to redirect fluid flow in a specific direction. This curved segment can either be welded or threaded onto the ends of two pipes, creating a joint that allows the fluid to flow around the bend. The angle of the bend is typically set at 90 degrees, but it can vary depending on the specific application.

Why are 90 Degree Elbow Pipes Popular in Marine Applications?

90 degree elbow pipes are a popular choice in marine applications. Firstly, they are durable and long-lasting, essential in an environment where you need your plumbing system to withstand the harsh conditions of saltwater and constant exposure to the elements. Secondly, they are easy to install, which makes them ideal for quick repairs or upgrades to an existing plumbing system. Lastly, the 90 degree angle of the fitting means that it can be used to change the direction of flow without causing any disruption to the overall flow rate.

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Types of 90 Degree Elbow Pipes:

Several types of 90 degree elbow pipes are available for use in marine applications. The most common are standard elbows, reducing elbows, and street elbows. Standard elbows have a uniform diameter throughout the fitting, reducing elbows have a smaller diameter at one end to reduce flow pressure, and street elbows have one threaded end for easy installation.

Common Applications of 90-Degree Elbow Pipes:

90 degree elbow pipes are used in marine applications, including water and waste management, fuel systems, and HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) systems. They are also commonly used in fishing vessels and yachts, where they play a critical role in maintaining the overall integrity of the plumbing system.

Properties of 90 Degree Elbow Pipe

1. Properties of 90 Degree Elbow Pipe
2. The elbow is used to change the direction of flow in a piping system.
3. Elbows are available in various materials, including stainless steel, carbon steel, and alloy steel.
4. Elbows are available in various sizes, from 1/8″ to 48″.
5. Elbows are available in various angles, including 90 degrees, 45 degrees, and 180 degrees.
6. Elbows are used in various applications, including automotive, plumbing, and HVAC.

Conclusion:

90 degree elbow pipes are an essential component of any marine plumbing system and are a popular choice due to their durability, ease of installation, and ability to change the direction of flow without causing any disruption to the overall flow rate. Whether upgrading an existing system or building a new one, 90-degree elbow pipes are a reliable and cost-effective solution that will help ensure the integrity of your vessel’s plumbing system for years to come.

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Some advice please...

Bowman heat exchanger comes with a cast alloy water injection elbow. However, I need to make up a different elbow to put a bit of height on my exhaust before the water gets injected. I'm good friends with a professional welder who can help me out. I will need to buy ready made bends to get the radius I require and these will be butt welded to tubing.

Question is do I do it in aluminium as per original or stainless 316? Looking at what's available off the shelf in terms of bends, the stainless mandrel bends are only 1.5mm wall thickness versus the cast aluminium bends of just over 3mm wall thickness. Not sure what works out stronger but 1.5mm seems thin for a marine exhaust....

The finished article will be like an inverted U shape just over 12" high. The exhaust goes up , does a 180 back down then gets the water injection. I need to do this to get enough height for it to be a downhill run to the water trap.

Thanks in advance as always

316 every time over ally. Hot gases and seawater are not kind to ally. Look a bit harder for 2mm SS bends.

IIRC the standard elbow on the recent Beta engines is alloy, so probably much depends on the exact composition.

I have the Beta high rise elbow, which is still made from stainless steel. Recently I replaced it, after 10 years and 500 hours. Quite a bit of corrosion was found, but no holes yet.
See this thread:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...rise-exhaust-life&highlight=high+rise+exhaust

The wall thickness on mine was 2.8mm, so in the OP's situation I would not bother with anything less than 2.5mm.

IIRC the standard elbow on the recent Beta engines is alloy, so probably much depends on the exact composition.

I have the Beta high rise elbow, which is still made from stainless steel. Recently I replaced it, after 10 years and 500 hours. Quite a bit of corrosion was found, but no holes yet.
See this thread:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...rise-exhaust-life&highlight=high+rise+exhaust

The wall thickness on mine was 2.8mm, so in the OP's situation I would not bother with anything less than 2.5mm.

Yes, my Beta replacement is alloy but very much thicker - and, they say, should last longer than the previous SS one.

Some advice please...

Bowman heat exchanger comes with a cast alloy water injection elbow. However, I need to make up a different elbow to put a bit of height on my exhaust before the water gets injected. I'm good friends with a professional welder who can help me out. I will need to buy ready made bends to get the radius I require and these will be butt welded to tubing.

Question is do I do it in aluminium as per original or stainless 316? Looking at what's available off the shelf in terms of bends, the stainless mandrel bends are only 1.5mm wall thickness versus the cast aluminium bends of just over 3mm wall thickness. Not sure what works out stronger but 1.5mm seems thin for a marine exhaust....

The finished article will be like an inverted U shape just over 12" high. The exhaust goes up , does a 180 back down then gets the water injection. I need to do this to get enough height for it to be a downhill run to the water trap.

Thanks in advance as always

I made one from stock SS pipe fittings and an ASAP water injection SS part. It bolts on to the aluminium stock heat exchanger on my MD22
Stu

You could try www.nero.co.uk who do a range of weld fittings of different schedules. Hope I don't offend your welder but it is very important to back purge the fittings and pipe work with inert gas so as to stop oxidation of the parent material.

Brilliant thanks I hadn't seen their website. Could somebody in the know explain what the difference between 10 or 40 schedule is? I'm sure my welder will know about that he makes aircraft parts for a living but I will check. Looks like Nero have 316 bends and pipe at 2.77 mm that should be fine yes? Oh wait I've sussed it the schedule is basically a certain wall thickness.
So.. Definitely 316 stainless, but do I want 2.77mm or 3.8mm wall thickness? Strength and durability vs. Weight and strain on heat exchanger..
Final thoughts? Given that the thing will be quite gangly I'm going to have a bracket on it close to the hose end that bolts to a hard point to the engine to relieve some of the strain on the heat exchanger.
Grateful for any other good advice or experiences on the subject...
Cheers gents

Brilliant thanks I hadn't seen their website. Could somebody in the know explain what the difference between 10 or 40 schedule is? I'm sure my welder will know about that he makes aircraft parts for a living but I will check. Looks like Nero have 316 bends and pipe at 2.77 mm that should be fine yes?

I bought the bits and pieces for a high rise bend to fit my Beta 25 by visiting Nero. Very obliging, I would recommend them.
I used 1.25" sch. 10 material, wall thickness ~2,7mm IIRC. Sch.40 would be uneccessarily heavy IMO.
Cost of materials was ~£40 plus a few hours in my workshop, I cut the mounting plate, prepped the tube joints and machined the outlet OD to 40mm etc.
I got a local outfit to tig weld it, they charged me ~£100 done by a coded welder after I tacked it with mig. The geometry needed to be fairly accurate.
Seems to be lasting the course well.
Add; At the "concept" stage it seemed to be turning out fairly hefty and I was originally going to put a support bracket on, but when I got it assembled I decided it wasn't needed.

Yes, my Beta replacement is alloy but very much thicker - and, they say, should last longer than the previous SS one.

Not perhaps relevant to the OP but my alloy Beta one is now five seasons old and shows negligible signs of corrosion - it's removed every year for checking. Previous to this the SS versions did not fair as well. But as you say very thick walled casting and not overly expensive from what I remember. Perhaps a bit of useful info for other Beta owners...