Need help choosing a new EBIKE! | Electric Bike Forums

28 Jul.,2025

 

Need help choosing a new EBIKE! | Electric Bike Forums

Second hand bikes tend to accentuate the ones with electrical problems, or the just plain junk. Beware of bikes sold without a battery removal key (if required) or a charger. These are often stolen.
You haven't stated how much elevation change, how heavy you are, or what size you are. Bikes are like clothing, the wrong size is useless. You should be able to sit comfortably with your legs almost straight with the pedal at the bottom position. You should be able to reach the ground stopped with the tips of your toes. Your favorite posture matters what kind of bike you buy. People that ride with a flat back, hands on the drop bars, hips in the air, those ride the fastest with the least wind resistance. Ergonomics textbooks suggest the exagurated flex of the neck to see the road can cause spinal problems. Those of us still riding in our seventh or eighth decade tend to ride with a straight back and neck. Medium forward lean comes with mountain & gravel bike frames.
Elevation rise of >333 m in an hour indicates a mid drive is required. These are more expensive, but tend to come from companies with a good reliability record. Bosch Shiimano Yamaha drives dominate that market. The replacement batteries tend to cost more than L. A few minority brands install the bafang mid, that can be bought in some countries with a throttle. These tend to use generic batteries like the dolphin.
Flatter terrain allows use of the hub motor. If you do not start and stop often and like high speed, the direct drive motor is useful. They are sluggish up to 20 km/hr, then really come on. That linked new bike appears to be a direct drive motor bike. If you do start and stop frequently, geared hub motors have much more acceleration at lower speeds and climb hills at lower speeds a lot better. I ride a w Mac12t geared hub tuned for climbing multiple short hills with significant weight. I carry supplies to my summer camp.
Rough road conditions can require a front suspension or even front and rear suspension. These add L to a bike price. Some people substitute fat tires, >3", but the low pressure required cuts range radically for a given battery size and eliminates the possibility of riding the bike unpowered. The best drive to ride unpowered is the geared hub, although bafang yamaha and shimano steps mid-drives do not drag the motor with your feet power off.
Majority brands with real alloy spokes, rims, cables, etc tend to be trek, shimano, giant yamaha cannondale kona. In the UK lots of raleigh stock. In the under L800 category you buy a lot of lead and copper in your "steel" and zinc in the "aluminum".
When you decide what kind and size of frame you need, check the categories threads for the best choices people recommend. https://forums.electricbikereview.com/categories/discussion-by-type.174/
One way to narrow your choices is to visit local bike shops and see what they stock. If you require help from a bike shop, say for an electrical problem, or to true a wheel or set up a derailleur, most shops will not touch an electric bike they did not sell.
One way to save lots of money is to buy a quality used major brand bike, then install a hub motor. I did that. It requires ability to match up the colors of the wires, perhaps wire termination crimp tool, and perhaps a drill, vise, hand tools and stock of stainless steel fasteners. See diy kits thread for more information. https://forums.electricbikereview.com/forum/diy/
Use safety glasses when using power tools.
When I have electrical problems I buy substitute parts and throw away the part that is associated with the problem. I went through 2 junk batteries before I spent the $630 necessary to buy a good one.
High speed comes with attendant risk of injury. Before I was able to find a vented helmet with a chin guard, I broke my chin hitting gravel at 25 mph. You can not always avoid penalties of riding over gravel, ridges, ruts, potholes, high block separators, tree limbs or trash. Besides my Fox Rampage helmet I wear long sleeve long pant mechanic's wear of polyester/cotton, closed shoes, polyester gloves, to prevent road burn when I hit. Over 25 mph people wear plastic armor sold for motorcyclists. I wear safety glasses to protect from gravel thrown by trucks, and bugs in the eye.

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Best Electric Bike Buying Guide - Consumer Reports

Electric bicycles come in a range of styles to suit different uses—everything from riding steep mountain trails to getting to and from work. But there are three general categories related to their electric propulsion systems. Each type applies electric power to the bicycle’s driven wheel in a distinct way, whether using input from the rider’s pedals or from a thumb or twist-grip-activated throttle. Deciding which one is best for you depends on how you plan to use the bike and how far you want to go.

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Class 1 represents pedal-assist bikes, which power the electric motor as your feet apply pressure to the pedals. There’s no throttle control on the handlebars to get the bike going; the electric part works only when the rider is pedaling, and the e-assist cuts off at speeds above 20 mph.

Class 2 bikes have an electric motor that works up to 20 mph, either while the rider is pedaling (pedal-assist) or with electric propulsion alone, via a throttle control.

Class 3 limits an e-bike’s top speed to 28 mph. These faster, more powerful models might not be legal to ride in some areas, such as on bike paths.

CR has tested Class 1 and Class 2 e-bikes but no Class 3 models. Prices range from about $600 to around $4,000, although most of the better ones cost at least $1,000. The highest-rated e-bikes tend to be the most expensive models in our tests, although none are anywhere near the $6,000 to $7,000 you might encounter at bike shops. (Prices can be much higher for certain specialty e-bikes.)

We’ve found that more selectable gears make for a better riding experience once the battery is drained and pedaling provides the only power. Single-speed bikes aren’t as versatile. Depending on the model, electric assist is applied either at the hub of the rear wheel or in what’s called a mid-drive, in which power is applied at the bottom bracket, where the pedals are located. Mid-drive models tend to be more responsive and typically route electric power through the bike’s gearing, which can help save battery power on hills and longer rides. Still, there are a number of hub-drive models that offer a reliable, satisfying ride.

Consumer Reports members can access our latest e-bike evaluations, including ratings on Class 1, Class 2, folding, and mountain bikes.

Take your time to find a model that fits you physically and will meet your long-term needs. If you’re in a hilly area, you may want one with a higher number of gear selections to save energy—both yours and that of the battery. Consult local regulations so that you know what, if anything, is required to ride an e-bike in your area, and where you’re allowed to ride one.

There are a number of newer brands that specialize in building e-bikes, like Rad Power Bikes and Blix Electric Bikes. You may be unfamiliar with them, but some of these are strong companies with innovative products and good customer support. Be wary of internet bike brands that might not be there tomorrow to offer customer service. Diligence is warranted if you stray from the long-standing name brands, including Cannondale, Specialized, and Trek.

For more Adult Electric Motorcycleinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

We’re also not bullish on any type of bike sold through big-box stores. The salespeople are seldom bicycle experts. This can affect assembly and repairs, and you might wind up spending any money you saved trying to get a budget bike to work properly. Many bike retailers won’t even service models sold from big-box outlets because the quality is so poor.

Another option is to buy a bike from a direct-to-consumer manufacturer. But it will need some final assembly, such as fitting the handlebars, seatpost, and pedals. You’ll need some mechanical aptitude, and you might need specific tools such as a hex or Allen key and a torque wrench. You may find it challenging to set up a disc-brake model without the pads rubbing on the rotor. You can take the bike to a local shop for assembly, but it will cost you.

That said, most bike shops sell e-bikes, and the sales and service staff are typically quite knowledgeable about them. Plus, they can help you make a solid choice if you decide you want to buy one.

We always recommend test-riding any bike before buying it. You should get a sense of how it feels, brakes, and shifts. (A dealer can customize the fit for you.) Some dealers will also allow you to rent an e-bike, giving you a chance for an extended ride on the road or trail you plan to frequent. Even if it’s not identical to the model you want to purchase, renting lets you gain additional seat time to settle on the style of e-bike that works best for you.

Once you’ve selected the model you want, keep in mind that it can be—and should be—further customized. The handlebar tape or grips, the pedals, and especially the saddle are your points of contact and control. Your hands, feet, and butt have to perch comfortably, and all of the bike’s parts should be adjusted to fit you. For instance, a new stem can lift the handlebars closer to your torso. A dealer can also add features for you that might not come with a bike, such as a bell, head and taillights, fenders, water bottle holders, a mount, and even a luggage rack. But the key is getting the fit right.

If you haven’t purchased a new bicycle in a while, you might be in for some sticker shock. Bicycles—especially electric ones—can be a relatively big-ticket item. In addition, tariffs on imported bicycles and parts will also increase prices.

Some bicycle shops offer layaway plans, where you make a down payment and pay the bike off in installments. The store will hold on to the bike until you are fully paid.

There are buy now, pay later options, and these vary in how they’re set up. A large finance company, Affirm, offers some 0 percent options, but it can also charge interest rates between 10 and 30 percent. Klarna is a competitor, and it’s more likely to offer a “pay in four” plan that has 0 percent interest on a four-month loan. How do these banks make a cent on zero-interest loans? Simple: Merchants or exercise bike brands like Peloton, which has zero-interest loans through Affirm, are fronting the finance charges because moving inventory is more valuable to them than making a few extra bucks off the financing.

Our advice: Consider the possibility of high interest rates before signing up for any buy now, pay later plan. 

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