That depends on what you’re spending on electricity, the amount of power that an installed solar photovoltaic (PV) system can provide, your finances, and your time frame for living in your home.
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Calculate your average monthly electric expenses by tallying your electric bills for the past 12 months and dividing by 12. Plug that figure, and your address, into a solar calculator such as Google Project Sunroof, EnergySage, or SolarReviews. Those tools will combine that information with aerial views of your roof from Google Earth, Tesla Maps, or another aerial photography tool to estimate how big a PV system your home could handle, how much you could save over, say, 20 years, and your investment’s break-even point: that is, when a purchase would begin to pay off. The average homeowner who buys a solar panel system could break even in 8.7 years, EnergySage says.
Savings and break-even estimates for the same property can be wildly different among the calculators, so consider them a starting point in your decision-making. But if you plan to sell your home before the earliest break-even point, a solar purchase probably doesn’t make sense.
If your roof is old, the answer is no—at least not until you replace it. Asphalt shingles that are 10 years old or more should be replaced before adding a solar array on top, says Ana Almerini, a spokesperson for SolarReviews. New solar panels are warrantied to last, on average, 25 years, while most roofs are warrantied for 30 years or less. If your 10-year-old roof needs to be replaced at its 30-year mark—20 years into your solar array’s lifetime—you’ll need to remove everything to reroof and then reinstall the solar system, a costly proposition.
With newer roofs, you’ll still only know for sure if a solar installation is feasible after a solar company rep checks out your roof and surrounding foliage in person. They’ll determine whether there’s too much shade or other obstacles, or the roof has problems that don’t make an installation worthwhile. That inspection costs you nothing and takes place before you sign on the dotted line. Or, If you’d rather find out whether your roof is a candidate before you shop—avoiding the calls, texts, emails, and visits to your front door you can expect from aggressive salespeople—pay a roofer for an inspection.
Check, too, with your municipality—and homeowners’ association, if you have one—to find out about any restrictions on the type and placement of solar panel arrays.
The most powerful savings tool for homeowners who buy their solar systems is the federal solar tax credit, available for installations through . It allows you to subtract 30 percent of the cost of buying and installing solar heating, electricity generation, and other solar home products from your federal taxes. There’s no dollar limit on those expenses; you’re entitled to that 30 percent tax break whether you spend $20,000 or more than $100,000 on costs associated with a residential solar system.
This break is available to all taxpayers for their primary or secondary residence located in the U.S. Taxpayers of any income level can take advantage of it. You can use it whether you itemize your taxes or take the standard deduction. Keep in mind, though, that the solar tax credit is available only if you purchase a solar system; if you lease one, you can’t take advantage of the credit. And if you don’t typically owe taxes, the credit isn’t useful.
You also could further your savings in these ways:
Local and state incentives. Your state may offer additional breaks, including tax rebates or sales tax exemptions (see this state-by-state compilation from Solar.com, an online solar marketplace). Your municipality may exempt your solar system from your home’s assessed value, so your taxes don’t rise even as your home value does.
Rebates. Your electric utility, as well as certain installers and manufacturers, also may offer rebates for buying and installing a system.
Sale of your excess electricity. In a handful of states, solar-home owners can arrange to sell their excess power to utilities. They sign up with a marketplace that assigns the excess electricity a certain number of solar renewable energy certificates (SRECs); those SRECs are then traded in a marketplace with fluctuating prices. The District of Columbia and eight states—Delaware, Illinois, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Virginia—have such marketplaces. In some areas of Michigan, Indiana, Kentucky, and West Virginia, residents can participate in Ohio’s SREC marketplace.
Leasing is commonly marketed as a way to finance a solar installation for those who aren’t using cash. The benefit of leasing—usually a 20-year commitment—is that you put no money down. Your energy bills are instantly lower, based on a formula the solar provider devises. Maintenance is handled by the solar company as well. Typically you pay a set monthly amount for electricity— regardless of how much power your system produces. (In a power-purchase agreement, a lease variant, you pay for what your system produces.)
Just be aware of the pitfalls and caveats of leasing, which make this type of financing less beneficial to homeowners than cash purchases or loans. For one, the solar panels, racks, and inverters on your roof aren’t yours, and the solar company that owns them—not you—benefits from all the available tax incentives. Interest rates can be higher than for financing you obtain yourself. Your monthly payment also can rise each year with a lease, versus a loan payment that stays constant.
And, depending on where you live, your home could be more difficult to sell with a leased solar system in place. If the new buyer doesn’t want to continue the lease, the solar company will remove its panels and you’ll have to pay what you still owe on the lease. Buyers who agree to assume the solar lease need to report those payments as their own debt when applying for a mortgage, added to any credit card balances, student debt, and car loans they already owe. “That lease payment could throw the buyer into a higher interest rate, or not qualify them for a loan at all,” says Sandra Adomatis, a real estate appraiser in Punta Gorda, Fla., and an expert in valuing green homes with The Appraisal Institute, an industry group.
Taking a loan from the solar company also isn’t ideal. The interest rates the solar company will charge may be higher than what you’d get by seeking an independent lender yourself. And solar dealers often tack on significant origination fees—up to 30 percent of the system’s cost, compared with 1 to 5 percent for traditional loans. “I wouldn’t use the financing from the solar company,” says Garrett Mendelsohn, founder and CEO at Solar Bootcamp, based in Palmas del Mar, Puerto Rico, which teaches solar company representatives how to sell systems virtually. “Ninety percent of the time, you’re paying a high interest rate and huge dealer fee.”
If you’ve been in your home a while, a less costly way to finance your solar investment is through a home equity loan or home equity line of credit (HELOC) or loan, borrowing off your home’s built-up value. The interest rate is likely to be lower than if you seek a personal loan for the job. And, you can deduct the interest on your federal tax returns for a major solar installation; the IRS permits such deductions when home equity is used to “substantially improve” your home.
For HELOCs and other types of loans, consult comparison sites like Bankrate, Lending Tree, and SoFi for competing interest rates and terms. New-home buyers and those refinancing also can check out Fannie Mae’s HomeStyle Energy Mortgage Program, which can help you bundle a solar loan into the new mortgage.
After closing, keep an eye on interest rates. You can refinance when current rates, now relatively high, begin to fall.
Solar installers are typically one-stop shops, offering you panels and inverters—and the racks that hold them—as well as installation. In addition to offering their own financing, they may sell extra warranties, monitoring, and maintenance.
To find installers, search for “solar installer,” or input your address and other basic personal information into comparison websites like EnergySage and SolarReviews; each analyzes the quality of local providers and their products using technical measures; they both also use consumer reviews. (EnergySage doesn’t require your number, a boon if you want to avoid texts.)
The not-for-profit Consumers’ Checkbook is another source of reputable installers, providing reviews of local services in seven major metro areas—Boston, Chicago, the Delaware Valley, Puget Sound, San Francisco, the Twin Cities, and Washington, D.C. In the Bay Area—subject to California’s relatively new mandate that new, low-rise residential construction include solar photovoltaic systems—Consumers’ Checkbook has reviews on 132 solar contractors.
Before you arrange for an in-person or Zoom consultation from companies you identify through these tools, ask providers to show proof that they’re licensed in your state and municipality to do the work where you live. Check, too, with the Better Business Bureau in your area for complaints. Confirm that the companies have been certified by the North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners (NABCEP), a trade organization that sets standards for solar installers. Your utility company or state energy board also may list providers that meet certain quality standards. The New York State Energy Research and Development Authority (NYSERDA), for instance, offers a search for solar contractors with a “Quality Solar Installers” designation.
Neighbors with recent installations might be willing to talk to you about their experiences with solar contractors. Or, ask for input through community forums like NextDoor and the Facebook page for your community. And when you contact a company, find out how long they’ve been doing solar installations. Choose a company with several years’ installation experience, and ideally a presence in more than one state, Mendelsohn advises. He also recommends finding a company that uses its own, in-house installers.
You’ll see lots of figures and factors in a solar proposal. But there are five really worth focusing on when comparing offers.
Price per watt or kilowatt. That’s the upfront cost divided by the size of the system. The lower the cost per watt, the better the system’s value. You can use each company’s estimated cost per watt to compare proposals. “It’s like unit pricing at your supermarket.” explains Vikram Aggarwal, EnergySage CEO.
Warranties. They may differ for the workmanship, the solar panels, and the inverters—that is, the mechanisms that take the direct current (DC) that the solar panels create and convert it to alternating current (AC) electricity that our homes use. A standard solar panel warranty is 25 years, Aggarwal says. Inverter warranties range from 10 to 25 years.
Rated power. This is a measure of the system’s efficiency—that is, how much electricity it puts out under ideal conditions. Rated power of at least 400W is preferable; Aggarwal recommends 420W to 440W, because he says it’s the most efficient. The solar company should also give you a projection of how much the power production will degrade by the time the warranty expires. Solar panels’ productivity degrades at a median, 0.5 percent a year, according to the Department of Energy’s National Renewable Energy Laboratory. At the end of a typical, 25-year warranty, that translates to productivity of 87.5 percent.
Annual production. You may notice that the proposals you get from different companies show dramatically different estimates of the amount of power they can provide—from, say, 100 percent of your current needs to 125 percent or more. Why bother with all that excess power? If, say, you add an electric vehicle to your power consumption, planning for more power may be worthwhile. “If you think you’re going to buy an electric car in next four to five years, you may want to oversize your system now,” Aggarwal says. “Most installers won’t be willing to add new panels and inverters in the future.” Depending on the arrangement with your utility, you may be able to sell back the excess power, reducing your electric bill further.
Quality of the solar equipment. You can look on EnergySage and SolarReviews for comparisons and judgments of solar panels and inverters; names like Canadian Solar, LG, and QCel show up highly rated there. For inverters, experts we talked to preferred microinverters, individual units attached to each panel, versus string inverters, which are connected to both the panels and each other like Christmas lights. As with Christmas lights, string inverters are annoyingly interdependent. “If one panel goes out, Aggarwal says, “the whole system goes out.”
If you are concerned about your carbon footprint and utility bills, you must have thought about solar energy - most probably in the shape of solar panels. But now there is another exclusive and more cost-effective choice: an entire solar roof.
Solar roofs are made with solar shingles that can fit over your current roofing or can be installed on their own. These shingles protect your home from the weather, just like regular roofs. But they are resistant to fire and look more uniform than solar panels.
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This comprehensive guide will discuss everything about solar shingles, from how they are distinct from solar panels to how much they can cost. And also will provide top stipulations for the best home storage batteries that will surely enhance the effectiveness of your solar system.
Solar shingles, AKA solar roof tiles, are made of thin photovoltaic (PV) sheets that can overlay or replace your existing shingles on the roof. They absorb and transfigure the sunlight into electricity. Using this energy method, individuals save money on utility bills, receive tax credits, and eventually get the best value for their initial investment.
Like standard roof shingles, solar shingles will safeguard your home against severe weather conditions and other things in the same way. Solar shingles are about the same size as typical roofing shingles, with an average measurement of 12 inches wide by 86 inches long. These slim tiles weigh about 13 pounds per square foot and are less than one inch thick.
Solar shingles commonly use Copper Indium Gallium. That is the reason they are so flexible and thin. This semiconductor has an average conversion efficiency rate of 10 to 12%. Some shingles are manufactured with monocrystalline silicon, also used in computer chips. These are more costly but worth the additional cost, with an efficiency rate of 15 to 20% higher.
Solar roof shingles work the same way as solar panels - both convert sunlight into electrical energy. However, there are multiple differences between the two.
Even though prices have been dropping lately as more companies enter the market, solar shingles are still more expensive than panels. The average price of solar shingles is $21 to $25 per square foot, or $60,000 to $75,000 for a standard-sized, single-story household. That is significantly higher than the cost of a conventional roof, which is between $5,500 and $12,000.
However, the final cost of solar shingles depends on several factors, such as:
While initially expensive to install, a solar roof can save money in the long run. Depending on the number of solar tiles on your roof, you can save 40 to 60% on your energy costs. You can also get relief on federal and state-level taxes.
According to the Inflation Reduction Act of , you can qualify for a 30% tax credit on your solar installation costs. Numerous states also offer local credit, rebates, and incentives.
Numerous brands make solar shingles for residential installations, but not all of them offer the same level of quality. Here are some of the top solar shingles manufacturers.
You must have heard the name of Tesla before. This tech giant also manufactures solar shingles. Tesla roof shingles are made from Quartz, which makes them more efficient and durable. Not only does Tesla make solar shingles, but it also manages every step of the process, from design planning to installation, including the removal of your existing roof, if applicable.
CertainTeed manufactures solar roof shingles with the same monocrystalline technology used for panels. It offers two designs: one that goes with concrete tile roofs and the other coordinating with asphalt roofs.
Luma solar shingles stand out from others in terms of their efficiency rating (21%) and durability. They can stand up to Category 5 storms and hurricanes. They are also classified as the only shingles that can be upgraded as the technology improves.
Timberline Solar by GAF Energy is aimed at making solar easy. Its solar shingles are durable, water-shedding, and can resist winds of up to 130mph. Timberline Solar shingles are nailed directly to the roof like regular shingles.
Home solar batteries can take your energy storage to a new level. These batteries can store extra energy produced by your solar panels or roof shingles. The stored energy can then be utilized during peak demand hours or when sufficient sunlight is not available. In simple words, home storage batteries will increase the overall efficiency of your solar setup.
But remember, not all batteries are created equal. Here are our top recommendations for the best home storage batteries:
The BLUETTI EP900 + B500 offers an impressive capacity of 10 to 20 kWh. It can provide up to 9,000W output for both 120V and 240V appliances.
If your energy needs evolve our time, it allows you to incorporate two EP900 units in parallel to reach an output of 18kW. This power is substantial for running your whole household without any hassle.
The EP900 + B500 utilizes the safest LiFePO4 battery technology for excellent performance. It arrives with a promising 10-year warranty, which makes it the most convenient and worry-free home energy storage solution.
The BLUETTI AC500 + B300S is a modular solar power system. It features a 5,000W pure sine inverter that can handle a power surge of up to 10kW.
The AC500 + B300S supports up to 8,000W output and can be fast-charged using both the wall outlet and solar panels/shingles. The best thing? You can add up to six B300S expansion battery packs to increase the total capacity from 3,072Wh to a huge 18,432 Wh.
In addition, it has 16 outlets so you can charge as many things as you want. Last but not least, you can feel safe knowing that it has a 4-year warranty.
Another best energy storage solution is the BLUETTI AC300 + B300, which can hold up to four B300 battery units, each of which can hold 3,072 Wh.
It features a powerful pure sine inverter that lets you adjust the charging rate. It supports a 1,800W AC output by default, but this can be increased to 3,000W with the 30A charging cord.
The AC300 and B300 can handle a blazing input rate. It can be charged at the highest rate of 5,000W with both a wall outlet and solar panels/shingles. It also offers smart app control for your convenience.
Solar shingles are pretty new. Therefore, you might have trouble finding experienced installers or contractors in your locality. But, they offer more benefits than solar panels in terms of styling, weatherization, and cost savings.
Home storage batteries are a wise investment since you can rely on them during extended outages or grid failures.
As with solar panels, shingles will also make your home more valuable. Even though the exact value relies on numerous factors, including comparable homes in your area, home buyers typically appreciate the potential cost savings associated with solar roofs.
No. Solar shingles are usually installed as a part of roof construction and redoing, or they are customized to fit right into your existing roof. Either way, only experienced roofers can perform the installation.
Generally, solar roof shingles last up to 30 to 35 years and can last even longer if they are properly cared for.
Yes. Shingles can cause leaks if not installed properly. So, always choose a contractor with prior experience of solar shingles installation in your area. If solar shingles are installed properly, you need not worry about leaks.
Solar shingles come with a variety of warranties, including product warranties, power or output warranties, and installation and workmanship warranties.
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