I usually have enough material due to previous year seedling mortality or planned removalI reused 2 cages from trees that didn't make it and it was super nice to not have to buy a whole roll for 2 more... At the end of the day the mesh roll cost does not matter as it is the best option to protect your trees.
Never hurts to keep a roll or two in reserve
bill
At the end of the day the mesh roll cost does not matter as it is the best option to protect your trees.Agree completely Spud. And here in southcentral Pa you might as well not plant a tree if you don't fence it good cause the deer will walk past a dozen oak, maple saplings to eat one apple tree. :(
Watch all the additional costs that people use to support and protect 4x2 wire fence to protect deer from bending and pushing it in.
At $175/roll, you are paying ~$11.60 per 10' strip for cage. Cage with one stake at $5 ea for total per cage of $16.60.
for 4x2 wire fence, you are paying $10 per 10" strip for cage. Add 3-4 metal stakes at $5 ea and you have a $25-30 per caged tree.
I just priced it here locally.Like I said, I would check with wholesale. You can probably find it cheaper. Especially if you will be buying in bulk. A quick Google search turned up this: http://www.catalog.janell.com/pd/Wire-Mesh-Rolls
Menards-$187.76
Lowes-$197.22
CRAP!!!!!!
I am planting around 60 new fruit trees next spring….figures.
At the end of the day the mesh roll cost does not matter as it is the best option to protect your trees.I used to use 2" x 4" welded wire fencing. Bears here flossed their teeth with it. Deer pushed it in - as you said - and it was a complete waste of money. We've been using concrete mesh for some years now - once and done - at least with the deer. Bears are another problem altogether. IMO and IME - concrete mesh is the best option for deer protection, and it can be re-used after failures. Avoid the big box stores. I know that there are some places still sitting on inventory that will have not gone up quite this much. I would google search for "wholesale concrete remesh". Also, check out more rural farm stores. Even as late as July and August of this year I was finding some for close to pre-covid prices.
Watch all the additional costs that people use to support and protect 4x2 wire fence to protect deer from bending and pushing it in.
At $175/roll, you are paying ~$11.60 per 10' strip for cage. Cage with one stake at $5 ea for total per cage of $16.60.
for 4x2 wire fence, you are paying $10 per 10' strip for cage. Add 3-4 metal stakes at $5 ea and you have a $25-30 per caged tree.
I need to harden the perimeter of my farm to keep the neighbors’ dogs out. What is the best way to do this?
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We have about 750 feet of existing three-board and four-board wood fencing to which I could add 2"x4" woven wire mesh, similar to what I have around my dry lot. Two-thirds of it contains my horses and one-third is just on the perimeter. Some of it is 8-9 years old and other parts are much older. Ideally we would pull all the boards and put the mesh underneath, so if a board warps or breaks it can be replaced. That seems very labor-intensive though, and likely to result in some broken boards.
Would I seriously regret putting the mesh on top of the existing boards and then adding face boards to help secure it? Is that a reasonable DIY job for me (moderately handy) and DH (recovering from a knee injury)? I plan to hire professionals for some new fencing as well but could get it done sooner and probably save some money if I added some of the mesh myself. I know that with new mesh fence you need corner braces and appropriate tension, but since there is already a nice solid wood fence can I just add the mesh onto it? I can buy Red Brand locally at Tractor Supply.
For the areas where the horses wouldn’t come into contact with the fence, is there a less expensive alternative to 2"x4" woven mesh? I don’t want to cheap out and have it not hold up. Our dog’s fenced area has crappy welded wire that has been destroyed by the weed whacker, and I want to avoid that.
Would a few strands of electric fence keep them out? You could easily run that at the lower level between the boards?
I don’t think that will be enough. A couple of them are longer haired and one is quite small and follows her nose. Also, one is a large aggressive breed who has growled at my husband and another neighbor, and another one chased my horse halfway across the field seven weeks ago (he’s now sleep-deprived because he hasn’t lay down since). I could try electric but I don’t think it will be enough of a solution for my horse and I to sleep at night again.
We did just that- no climb on top of board fence. I don’t care that it’s funny looking. We just used barbed staples to secure, not another layer of boards.
Electric hasn’t worked for me to keep dogs out- they go too fast and too furry to get stung.
Thank you, that’s good to know! I really don’t care about appearance (and I doubt it will be noticeable from farther away anyway). I just wonder if it will be a huge nightmare if boards need to be replaced?
The only time I’ve seen electric fence keep a dog out is when I baited it - hung some empty but dirty cat food cans from it so the fence bit him on his nose/tongue. It wasn’t aimed at our dog, but it worked on him. He respected that fence until long after we’d disconnected that low wire (for winter snow, then never reconnected it).
But to make it effective against the assortment of dogs described, I think you’d need several strands and to make sure their first encounter is via bait. Then it would need to stay hot, and you’d still risk a dog figuring out they could rush through it.
I’m sure you’ve thought of this but could you staple just to the posts on the “backside”. Maybe use just 3’ wire so less weight to anchor and still keep the dogs out? I agree covering your board face will be a giant pain for future repairs. Also agree you won’t see it to notice it’s there unless up close.
My neighbor has no climb over boards. She was just complaining how hard it is to change out a broken board… but her fences are really old and her horses tend to lean on them so… You will have to stretch the new mesh somewhat - you can do it with a tractor or ATV and an iron rod threaded through the fence, or there are also special tools. https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Air-Technologies-DPT-Stretcher/dp/B000VYHVSO/ref=asc_df_B000VYHVSO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-&psc=1
I don’t know if what we did would work for your situation but we had to double fence an area to keep OUR dog from sticking his long nosed, skinny, sorta big head thru the woven wire to start a fight with the neighbor’s bigger than he is dog. We did that after numbnuts got his ear and a spot over his eye bit????
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We already had 4” woven wire up. We attached chicken wire to the woven wire with plastic ties and problem solved:smiley:
If you’re board fence is all you have, staple the chicken wire to it and don’t worry about replacing boards unless they are already broke.
One section of my fence is “field fence” 4 ft ish high woven wire with closer weave at ground and more open weave on top. It’s significantly cheaper than the woven 2x4 wire. And much easier to tension (particularly compared to the 5 ft 2x4 woven fence). I run a line of hot tape on top of my field fence so it’s closer to 4’6” tall. My Malinois doesn’t challenge it.
I’d probably try the above poster’s idea of setting it on the backside of the posts so the boards are easier to replace when they inevitably fail.
I think it’s doable DIY.
if you take a sufficiently large charger and put it on only 750 yards of fencing…plus I would go with wire vs tape…
You can also put the wire mesh on the other side of the posts, and see if it works.
Hmm yeah, I saw that suggested in an old thread on here and people were mixed on how safe it would be for the horses. I think for the 250’ or so the horses can’t reach, I will put the mesh on top of the boards because there’s no real reason for those boards to break or warp regularly; hasn’t happened there yet in 8-9 years anyway. Still thinking about what to do for the part the horses can access. I will think about putting it on the other side of the posts. Seems like a horse could get a nose or leg caught between the boards and the wire kind of easily though.
I tossed mesh on the backside, so boards on front of posts, mesh on back. No interference. Stretch it tight.
What about elect chicken wire? It is a mesh not a single wire.
This ^
Staple 4’ chicken wire to the backside of the boards. Easy to remove if repairs are needed, enough with the boards to deter the dogs.
(and not electric {“elect”} if that’s what carman was saying.)
Is chicken wire considered strong enough to keep out dogs and hold up to accidental blows with the weedwhacker? I thought it was pretty flimsy stuff.
I doubt chicken wire is strong enough plus how would it hold up when deer or bear climb/jump over it?
I think the safest thing is putting no climb on the front of your 4 board and then just deal with broken boards down the line as necessary.
Four feet tall chicken wire in ADDITION to your board fence. Stapled to the boards. No need for electric, it will short out anyway if it’s close to the ground, and you need it close to the ground to keep the little dog from getting under.
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